Either way, it's the Zac Brown Band...

I arrived in North Africa on August 3rd, and from then every single day was 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit.  Many were humid, some were overcast, but all were clear - until yesterday.  I woke up to a light rain.  What was this strange thing water falling from sky?  I was like the lifelong California resident who moves to the Midwest and is bewildered when he encounters snow for the first time.  I'd forgotten all about rain.  Where the (bleep) is my jacket and umbrella?!  A little more precipitation today, too.  Not to mention, cold.  Hope this doesn't start a trend...

Speaking of early morning excitement, yesterday I was shaving when right in the middle of things the power goes out.  Really?  Now?  Perfect timing.  The only surprise was that it was out only briefly.  I bring this up because living in Casa has brought certain challenges.  The infrastructure here is NOT what it is back in the States.  My (much more religious) roommate marvels at the colorful language I can command at these times.  I have, unfortunately, gotten used to power outages, gremlins messing the phone, Internet connections failing.  And around here is as good as it gets in this country!  Reminds me...It's funny how the locals look at themselves and their city.  They believe to a person that Moroccans are a friendly people - and they are.  They also do not hesitate to say that Casablanca is an ugly city.  It is the center of commerce in Morocco; all agree that Marrakesh and Fes have much more to offer in terms of culture.  Someday soon, hopefully...

While we are on the topic of how things work around here...I signed out the car to do some grocery shopping yesterday afternoon.  I'm cruising down Route d' Azemmour toward the mall, had that Renault Kangoo doing over 80 when I saw the police.  Uh-oh.  Did you forget that I'm talking kilometers here?  (snicker)  Driving home I'm enjoying a nice meal (I'm all about multi-tasking, you know.  And food.) when I thought about what I was taught to do if the police ever did pull me over.  Supposeably, the standard bribe is 200 dirhams.  I can afford it because payday was today.  Whee - couscous for everyone!  Not that I have a bank account to put that money in - I can't get one until I get my residency papers.  Uh, I ain't exactly holding my breath while I wait.  I'm told 4 months is a safe bet.  I hear that they're world-beaters compared to the postal service...

Took a walk to the beach around sunset Tuesday.  Tide was low and it was getting a lil' dark when I got down to near the water and I saw two guys coming in with a plastic bag.  I approached and asked in French as to what they had in the bag while I pantomimed a clam with my hand.  What else could it be?  Dude reaches in and pulls out a small octopus!  Cool!  Never saw one live and THIS close!  After they walked away I went toward the water and it wasn't smooth sailing along the sand; it was a little craggly.  I guess at low tide they walk out into the water and yank 'em out of their hiding spots with the long, thin, hooked metal poles they were carrying...

Oh yeah, about the title of this week's post...I couldn't pick between 2 song titles that I thought were both appropriate given this week's topics, but both were by the country band Zac Brown Band -  Toes (in the water) or Colder Weather (feat. Little Big Town).  G'night, y'all!

"Holes In The Floor Of Heaven"

Some neat little things happened this week...An Arabic teacher asked me to observe her class. She had some questions and heard the new guy was happy to come in and make suggestions regarding instructional methods and strategies and behavior management. For 50 minutes I heard absolutely nothing but Arabic, not a single word in English. It was a fun challenge to work solely on the basis of non-verbal behavior...Our open house night was yesterday. I had to submit notes ahead of time so that the translators had time to rework problematic words and phrases from English to French. In one class, a mother asked a lengthy question to the translator. The co-teacher and I looked at each other, neither of us having a clue what was being said, but I did know it wasn't good. Unfortunately, I was right...The daily planner-type things finally arrived this week for the students. You can write down your assignments, etc., plus there are some resources in the back, like the periodic table, measurement conversions - stuff like that. After they went out to the homerooms, someone noticed a HUGE problem - there was a 2 page map in the back with Western Sahara depicted as a separate country immediately to the south of Morocco. Um, that is ILLEGAL in this country. I'll spare you the details of this disputed territory - let's just say people were hurriedly blacking out or tearing out that page... Last Saturday I took off my shoes and took a tour of the Hassan II Mosque. It is the largest mosque in the country and well within the top 10 in the world. Its minaret (tower from which the adhan, or call to prayer, is made) is the world's tallest at just under 700 feet. It stands on a promontory looking out to the Atlantic Ocean. A total of 105,000 worshippers can gather for prayer at the mosque simultaneously, 25,000 inside the mosque (20,000 men on the floor and 5,000 woman separated from the men in two hanging mezzanines) and another 80,000 on the mosque's plaza. The inside is 100 feet wide, 200 feet long, and 200 feet high at the highest point. The interior can house Notre Dame or Saint Peter's. Built on reclaimed land, almost half of the surface of the mosque lies above sea water of the Atlantic. This was inspired by the verse of the Qur'an that states "the throne of Allah was built on water." Part of the floor is glass and offers a view down at the sea. This feature was a result of King Hassan II declaring: "I want to build this mosque on the water, because God's throne is on the water. Therefore, the faithful who go there to pray, to praise the Creator on firm soil, can contemplate God's sky and ocean." A spotlight shines in the direction of Mecca at night from the top of the minaret. The building also includes a number of other modern touches. It was built to withstand earthquakes and has heated floors, electric doors, and a sliding roof. The mosque cost $600M US. Locals will grumble about that much money being spent on the mosque and not programs for the people, but they will grumble quietly... Beneath the main floor is the ablution room, where 41 fountains allow for the ritual cleaning before worship. Beneath that is an enormous hammam, or public bath - they are hugely popular here; many people will go a couple of times per week to mellow out. Work on the mosque began in 1986, and lasted until 1993. During the height of construction, 1400 men worked during the day and another 1100 during the night. 10,000 artists and craftsmen participated in building the mosque. Every inch of the place seemingly is covered in some sort of hand-carved/painted, etc., piece of work. All of the granite, plaster, marble, wood and other materials used in the construction, were taken from around Morocco, with the exception of some Italian white granite columns and glass chandeliers. Six thousand traditional Moroccan artisans worked for five years to create the mosaics, stone and marble floors and columns, sculpted plaster moldings, and carved and painted wood ceilings. All in all, it's an extraordinary structure. Enjoy the photos and see you next week!

 

"Burning Down The House"

Yup, fun times in the Middle East this week.  Most of you I'm certain have heard about the murder of the U.S. Ambassador to Libya, in addition to breaches of other embassies and other shenanigans throughout the region.  I didn't pay much mind to what was happening.  Soon after I got here, HR gave us info, including something from the U.S. Dept. of State that suggested we (basically) register with the Consulate here in Casa.  Could come in handy down the line.  If something is happening, they'll shoot me an email.  Whatever.  But I did do it.  Went online.  Didn't take long.  Completely forgot about it soonafter.  Open my GMail Wednesday - here is an excerpt (highlights mine):

Media sources have reported protests in the region. Due to the possibility of further protests, the Consulate is closed to the public this afternoon.

The Consulate urges U.S. citizens to avoid large gatherings and non-essential travel in and around the city center this afternoon and to be mindful of potential protest activity in this area in the near future.  Even demonstrations or events intended to be peaceful can turn confrontational and possibly escalate into violence.  U.S. citizens in Morocco are urged to monitor local news reports and to plan their activities accordingly.

The potential for terrorist violence against U.S. interests and citizens remains elevated in Morocco. It is important for U.S. citizens to be keenly aware of their surroundings and adhere to prudent security practices such as avoiding predictable travel patterns and maintaining a low profile.  Establishments that are readily identifiable with the United States or other Western countries are potential targets for attacks.  These may include facilities where U.S. citizens and other foreigners congregate, including clubs, restaurants, places of worship, schools, hotels, movie theaters and other public areas. 

The Consulate reminds U.S. citizens to review their personal security plans and remain alert to their surroundings at all times in Morocco.

 

Lovely.  Actually, there really wasn't much to worry about.  Arab Spring barely sprung here, or elsewhere in The Maghreb (roughly, NW Africa).  I wasn't afraid (much).

 

A local staff at the school sent me to his barber last Saturday for my first Moroccan haircut.  He said it might be a little more expensive but worth it.  I took a cab out there, found the place and walked inside.  3 guys, all young.  Hmmm.  I've gone to o-l-d school Italian barbers all my life.  While waiting I watch sports on the TV.  Soccer.  I'm shocked.  Never see that here.  As usual I have no clue what is being said.  I bring this up because it affects me on a DAILY basis.  Usually, I wind up getting by.  Anyway, I sit in the barber chair, and the barber says something I can't understand (yeah, yeah).  I realize he is asking how I want my hair cut.  Uh-oh.  I hadn't thought of this.  I don't know what to say.  I make a couple of simple gestures and pray.

Best.  Barber.  Ever.  Especially for a young guy, he was a wizard with his implements.  Did all the little extras.  Unbelievable.  So, I ask him (in French, by the way) "How much?"  He replies "50" (dirhams).  He said the number in English.  I figure I must've misunderstood.  Can't be 50 dirhams.  I asked again and he answered again the same.  That's less than $6US!  I gave him what I'll bet was the biggest tip off his young career (particularly because the tipping culture really sucks here for those in service industries.  That plus roundtrip cab fare was easily under 15 bucks total.  Nice.  I'm tired.  Tssbeh aala kheir.

"If you don't eat your meat...

...you can't have any pudding.  How can you have any pudding if you don't eat your meat?"  Sorry - just was in the mood to continue the Pink Floyd theme from last week.  I had Indian food from scratch tonite for dinner - cost for chicken Tikka wrap, side salad and a can of Coke Zero cost less than $7US.  Adjacent Thai place I hear good things about - think I know where I'm having dinner next Friday.  Alright, Jack, get your mind off food!
By necessity, I always carry a lil notepad with me to scribble notes as I mega-multi-task thru the day.  Tonite you will be treated to a handful of random musings collected in recent weeks...
I have been here now for five weeks.  Every single day has been pretty much the same: 80 degrees plus.  Frequently humid, rarely overcast.  Normal people consider it great weather.  That wouldn't include me.  The sun and I don't get along.  Yet, I've refrained from buying sunscreen.  Why?  I'm cheap.  It's $12-13US for a small bottle of the good mass-market stuff, and it goes up from there!  Apparently, sunscreen is a relatively recent phenomenon.  Even though I began helping to coach track this week, I vow to hold out til rainy season...
Staying in the sunny outdoors, we move to tree-climbing goats.  Read that again.  Tree.  Climbing.  Goats.  I had a student mention this to me last week.  This kid is a sweetheart; but, let's just say I was skeptical.  I won't repeat what I actually did say.  He happened to have his world geography book with him, and in said book there happened to be a photo of an argan tree in Morocco jammed full of goats!  This only happens in Morocco.  Seriously.  Here is a pic:

Not good enuff fer ya?  How about a video clip:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQev3UoGp2M

Read up on what people do with the goat droppings...

I was told ahead of time that in Morocco that frequently 2 guys or 2 girls will be walking along holding hands; this is perfectly normal behavior.  It has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with their orientation.  Nonetheless, it was a bit jarring early on to see this.  Same also with the kissing on the cheeks (right first!) by men and women when greeting...
I very recently had my first meal here where I needed a knife and fork.  Twice during the meal I was all flustered trying to pick up my utensils with the correct hands for cutting (you know, for righties: fork/left, knife/right).  Why?  I've only been using my right hand to eat.  Why?  The left hand is not to be used for eating because that hand is dirty - it is reserved for wiping one's backside...
Littering is a little bit of a problem here.  Ask a local why and you will get this casual, French-influenced answer: that is why street cleaners are hired...
Time for bed soon.  Big day tomorrow - getting my first haircut in Morocco.  Could be interesting.  I'm looking so forward to the rooster who gets a huge head start on the day...