Saturday, January 4, 2014

2013 Holiday Travels - Berlin

  Berlin is the capital city of Germany, and with 3.5 million people, it's also the largest city in the country.  I heard more than once that Berlin is a very "international" city, with inhabitants having come from over 190 nations; it has always had a very cosmopolitan makeup, dating to before the birth of Christ.  Fast forward to the 20th century...

  After the First World War, Hitler brought his act north and Berlin became the capital of the Third Reich; after the Second World War, the heart of Berlin was a shambles.  The city was then divided among the victors, in a similar fashion as the country as a whole.  To illustrate:



  The fun wasn't done yet.  In 1961, the German Democratic Republic (East Germany) surrounded West Berlin with a wall, which did not come down until 1989.  East and West Germany were united in 1990, and Berlin again was a capital city.
  I was born in 1969, and have always been a keen student of politics and history.  In related news, I'm also a geek.  Anyway, I work with many colleagues who were literally in diapers when Germany took its present shape.  I try to tell them that this not-that-old man nonetheless remembers a time not that long ago when the world was a vastly different place.  I can understand my parents having what I'll call nuclear attack fire drills in their school buildings that had bomb shelters; I can understand why the Cuban Missile Crisis legitimately scared them to death.  Coming of age in the 80's, I was still fully able to understand the geopolitics of the planet's 2 superpowers.  That's just the way things were.  I couldn't believe when I was in college and the Berlin Wall crumbled.  I never imagined it could happen.  To wit: Rocky 4 may be a jingoistic farce today, but it well represented the times when it came out in '85.
  Fast forward again - a WW2 bomb claimed lives yesterday as it detonated in a town near Bonn in Western Germany when it was disturbed at a construction site.  Apparently, unexploded ordinance from that time is found fairly frequently (though usually without fatalities).  That, of course, is a history lesson that Germans could do without.  What about the period of roughly 35 years after the war?  It is understandable that the Berlin Wall initially took a real beating; a lot of it soon became roadway and fodder for other construction projects.  Then, as the number of remaining sections dwindled greatly, many people wanted to keep some of it as an historical reminder.  Very recently, there was a big kerfuffle about moving a strip for a commercial project.  The builders had the go-ahead, but had to do their business under the cover of darkness in order to evade protesters.
  On a lighter note, Berlin is a city with a relatively young population with people from all over the globe.  It has a great array of museums.  Some of them can be found on Museuminsel (literally, Museum Island).  The best-known is the Pergamon Museum, noted for its art and architectural collections highlighting ancient Greece and the Middle East.  The Topography of Terror and the Berlin Wall Memorial are open-air sites and can't-miss.  The DDR Museum was good also.  The three gave great insight to what the Nazis did and what life was like in the former German Democratic Republic (East Germany).  I was steered away from the Checkpoint Charlie Museum.  Here are some photos of Checkpoint Charlie and of the wall, in original and new locations:

Sign at Checkpoint Charlie
An American soldier (photo, top-right) is forever on guard


A long stretch of the Wall in its original location
It was difficult to comprehend that I was looking thru a gap in a once-divided city.

 At a design studio
Selfie outside a hotel

The Brandenburg Gate

 The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe
view from within

  Interestingly, "everyone is getting a memorial" in Berlin.  The Jewish people are the most noted victims of the Nazis, but not the only ones.  I saw a sign for a homosexual memorial, and was told that the handicapped, etc. were also "getting theirs".

 Hitler's bunker...
...was underneath this courtyard playground

On a final, more playful note, this hotel by the Brandenburg Gate is where Michael Jackson infamously dangled his infant son from a window :)

Auf Wiedersehen!


Friday, December 27, 2013

2013 Holiday Travels - Pt 3 - Prague

  Prague has an important history that dates back to the 9th century.  It became a home for Bohemian kings, some of whom sat as emperors of the Holy Roman Empire. During the 14th century, New Town was constructed as an extension of Prague's historic center Old Town, and still exists today.  Later, Prague fell under Habsburg rule, and in 1918, after WWI, it became capital of Czechoslovakia.  The city was virtually unscathed by WWII.  After the fall of The Wall, the city's population surged to almost one and one-quarter million, and became capital of the Czech Republic after the split into two countries 20 years ago.  The West has since discovered Prague, and made it the top tourist city in Central Europe.  This is the scene I encountered Christmas night as my train rolled in from Vienna.

  When it comes to cultural features and spectacular architecture, in my opinion, Prague is almost right there with Vienna, and I will argue offers more in terms of celebrating its history .  My mind is still enthralled with what I've seen the last several days.  Where to start?  Well, I guess Prague Castle overlooking things here is the rock star:


  It is enormous; probably no other ancient castle is larger.  If Prague Castle isn't the feature attraction, then I suppose Charles Bridge, in the foreground would be.  It doesn't look like much until you get a lot closer (below); the statues lining both sides are fantastic!


  Just one example of what I guess are a couple dozen:


  I can't put a number on how many beautiful churches and other historic buildings I viewed.  From what I've learned, the Gothic-style Tyn Church is maybe the big dog:


  Apparently, the Astronomical Clock is famous.  Yawn.  My Munich tour guide said that a major travel publication recently named the Glockenspiel the 2nd-most overrated tourist sight in the world.  In the top spot was this:


  Whatever.  My personal favorite, though, was the Municipal House, a civic building and concert hall.  This is a Googled image of the Art Nouveau wonder:


  Oh, wait this is what I originally saw:


  My camera can't do justice to what my eyes saw.  I turned a bend, then caught myself moments later with my jaw dropped, mouth hanging open.  You just had to be there.  Instead of two days, I wish I had two weeks for all of the fascinating museums.  I would really need that long.  Maybe another year.  Onward to Berlin!


Thursday, December 26, 2013

2013 Holiday Travels - Pt 2 - Vienna

  Vienna is the capital of Austria, and with about one and three-quarter million people, its largest city.  Celts (not from Boston) first settled there approximately 2,500 years ago, then Romans some 500 years after.  In time, Vienna became home to the rulers of the Habsburg dynasty, the de facto capital of the Holy Roman Empire and capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, among other entities.  It is renowned about the globe for its musical and other artistic contributions to the world.  Then I showed up.

  First-class train travel is the way to go!  I didn't have a choice but to purchase it when I bought my rail pass, but I'm glad I did.  4 hours passed by very quickly and comfortably on the way in from Munich.  I picked up some more euros, got my bearings and took a tram to my hostel, and it was a very nice one.  I crashed and woke up to the day before Christmas.  The city was pretty dead, and I chose to walk the Ringstrasse.  It is a 5km circular road surrounding the inner core of the city, something like a beltway, but it has a unique story.  The Ringstrasse was constructed to replace city walls erected during the 13th century.  It is a boulevard, and it was built for show, but there was a practical element to it, too.  Napoleon III of France had shown that wide streets couldn't be effectively barricaded by revolutionaries.  The things you learn...

  As I mentioned, the Ringstrasse was a vanity project.  The idea was to demonstrate the glory of the Habsburg Empire.  For better or worse, they succeeded, big time!  The following photos are of some of the principal structures along the way:

the Vienna State Opera:


Academy of Fine Arts (twice rejected Hitler):


Parliament:


Rathaus (Town Hall):

File:Rathaus Vienna June 2006 165.jpg

Burgtheater (Austrian National Theater):

File:Burgtheater Weitwinkel.jpg

University of Vienna (founded 1365):


Votivkirche (Votive Church):


Weiner Borse (Stock Exchange):


Urania (Observatory):


Österreichische Postsparkasse (Postal Savings Bank):

File:Österreichische Postsparkasse Vienna Oct. 2006 002.jpg

  There are other palaces and wonderful green spaces.  The city is gorgeous!  Next stop: I go to "Czech" out Prague (insert rim shot) - I'll be here all week, folks!

Monday, December 23, 2013

2013 Holiday Travels - Pt 1 - Munich

  Got up Saturday morning and made my way to the Casa airport with no problem, hit a bit of a snag when the officer at passport control didn't like that I had only a photocopy of my residency renewal, but eventually talked my way through to the C-15 gate.  The screen said that a flight to Amsterdam was to be the next to board.  I grabbed an airline employee who said to disregard.  I was dubious.  When my appointed boarding time passed, I asked another employee what was going on and he said not to worry.  Uh-huh.  A Dutch lady overheard my conversation and informed me that the info on the screen was accurate and that my gate was moved...to A-5!  I ran my tail off and got on in the nick of time.  At least the flight was pleasant.
  I eventually found my way to my hostel, checked in and went in search of dinner.  Shockingly, places serving sausages and beer weren't hard to find.  I went back to room and crashed in bed...for a while, anyway.  You see, I was in a 6-person room; the other 5 beds were taken by a group of young men who came in late night, loud and drunk.  Lovely.  We'll get back to them later.
  On Sunday morning I took a fantastic free walking tour of the city.  How, you ask?  It's actually a pretty interesting concept.   A marketing (not tour) company uses the services of guides who are independent contractors who earn no compensation whatsoever from the company; in fact, the guides must pay the company 2.50 euros per person in the group - they make their money by tips from the tourists.  I ran the numbers in my head - the way I figure, everyone wins big time.  My guy was great!  I walked around the city centre for 3 hours being highly informed and entertained for the duration, and paid a lot less than if I had taken a bus tour.
  A little about Munich...it is the capital of the state of Bavaria, and at about 1.5 million people, the 3rd largest city in Germany, with a documented history back to 1158.  I can't begin to detail here the very lengthy and fascinating history of this city.  But, I will give you a few tidbits that will give you a new perspective on some things you thought you already knew.  I know I was quite surprised at some things I learned.
  3.5M bombs dropped on Munich in WW2 - how did several prominent churches along one stretch and a main road perpendicular to them survive?  Easy - they formed a cross which was used by Allied bombers for navigation.  You've heard of Mad King Ludwig, right?  Yeah, well, he wasn't crazy in the least.  But, he was gay, which was legal for everyone...but the king, who had to produce an heir.  It is most likely that he was the victim of a political assassination.  You should check out the history of his family - what a crew!  You know that Hitler guy?  And the Hofbrauhaus, the most famous beer hall on Earth?  They have a very interesting connection that is not widely spoken of.  Hitler re-branded the political party he spoke for as the Nazi party at a meeting there.  I could go on and on forever.  What a time I had!  How about some pics?


  I took this one after paying 1.50 euros for the privilege of climbing about 300 steps to near the top of Saint Peter's, the oldest church in the city.  The church on the left with the iconic twin towers is Frauenkirche (Cathedral of Our Dear Lady), and the one in the foreground is the Neues Rathau (New Town Hall), with its world-famous Glockenspiel.

The Hofbrauhaus:


  The Nationaltheater, the renowned opera house.  You MUST read up on its history; it's one of the most riotously funny stories ever, esp. the fire suppression system that was 2 centuries ahead of its time...and failed (because, um, water freezes in winter).  Check it out


Just a glimpse of one of the famed Christmas markets:


  Apparently, Verona, Italy is a sister city to Munich.  There is a statue there of that Juliet gal, Romeo's squeeze.  If you give her a flower and rub her you'll be the recipient of luck in love.  Verona gave one to Munich.  It seems that people are quite fond of rubbing one particular part of her anatomy...


  Back to those rambunctious boys.  They could not seem to use their access card to enter the room, and didn't think of, oh, I don't know, getting it redone at the desk.  They had to knock and wake me up to let them in.  I plotted my revenge.  I got a small measure of payback in the morning.  At 9:45 a.m. I went to get my stuff from my room so I could check out before 10.  When I walked in, the lads roused a bit and asked if checkout was 10 or 11.  Hee hee hee...

At the train station to ride the rails to Vienna - bye bye, Munich!



Saturday, December 14, 2013

Settlin'

Don't know why I even try when I know how it ends
I've been leaving it up to fate
It's my life so it's mine to make...

Easy for Jennifer Nettles of Sugarland to say...I've been back here for 4 months and have taken 10 flights in visiting 5 countries.  I'm flying out in a week so I can take the train through 4 more nations.  And the year is young.  The way I figure, I don't how long I'm gonna be here, so I'm going to take full advantage and see the wonders of the world with my own 2 eyes.  I want to view in person the things that have only ever previously existed on a page or screen.

In the meantime, I continue to live in the midst of the never-ending circus that is the "white city" of Casablanca.  Despite my best efforts, I've yet to get run over.  Yet.  I'm glad I did a double-take on a still-dark Friday morning when a city bus barreled the road with its lights off as I crossed in a pre-dawn stupor on my way to my pick-up point.  The way people drive here is crazy, which also defines how people cross streets seemingly without a care in the world.

I'm also not certain why perfect strangers have absolutely no problem whatsoever asking me to just give them my hard-earned dirhams.  If you want to sit on the street with a hand out, OK.  If you approach me in a reasonable manner, I don't like it but can live with it.  Don't approach me as if you have a right to my money, and certainly do not give me grief and/or follow me when I decline.  I'm not the biggest or baddest, but I stand 6'3" 250.  Why would you voluntarily choose to mess with me?  Guy came r-e-a-l close to getting put to sleep last night, and would've if not for the presence of cops.

I think I have an answer to that question, and it is rooted in the culture.  I already knew such things as that if 2 men are having a very animated conversation, they are not necessarily having a heated argument.  I've seen a couple of incidents this year that expand on that concept.  I was at Derb Ghallef (the city block-sized black market) one afternoon when I saw 2 men jaw-jackin' at one another.  I stopped to witness the impending fistfight.  Alas, no such luck.  In the States they'd have been throwin' dukes in a heartbeat.

Very recently, I left a grocery store to see a man whose vehicle had been pulled over by a policeman.  They were along a busy road at rush hour.  What the man was yelling I have no idea.  What amazed me was the fact that he was doing it literally face-to-face with the officer.  And this was allowed to happen?!  There is not a single cop in the U.S. who wouldn't have, at a minimum, cracked his head open like a ripe melon when the guy got within reach.  He would very possibly kill him.  Guess the rules are different here.  Still amazes me, though.

I bet the guy wouldn't mess with Marines!  And that's who I was with last night.  Well, I was with colleagues at the Marine House, where the aforementioned (Men's) Dept. of the Navy personnel who work at the consulate live.  They were good enough to host a Happy Hour for us expats.  Tons of fun.  Been eating out way too much.  Sushi last night, Chinese last week, etc.  Too easy to do here.  City living isn't quite my cup of tea, but it has its advantages, I suppose.  My guy at the hanoot is cool.  The kid at the KFC is determined to teach me a new French word when I come in.  The parking guy on my block seems decent.  Almost takes my mind off of the 2 bodies I came upon at the Piss Corner a week ago.  I have to assume that contributed to someone's decision to just have that corner painted.

Ah, the fun never ends here.  The are few certainties in life.  Death, taxes and Casa cabbies will try to cheat you.  I wish I knew what the future held for me.  I used to, until I didn't.  But I do know I'm going to accept an offer to return here next year.  Heaven help me...

I ain't settling for just getting by
I've had enough so so for the rest of my life
Tired of shooting too low, so raise the bar high
Just enough ain't enough this time
I ain't settling for anything less than everything...

Sunday, November 17, 2013

"Time Well Wasted"

I could've been workin' overtime
Or at home tryin' to make that truck run right
Instead of wadin' out in that stream
All day long barely catchin' a thing...
It was time well wasted...

Thank you, Brad Paisley!  Due to Muharram, akin to the Muslim New Year, and the Moroccan celebration of the famed "Green March", school was cancelled for the first week of November, and I had some time on my hands.  I scheduled a trip to Istanbul, Athens and Budapest.  It was a whirlwind tour, not a leisurely trip.  Casablanca is in a pretty good position from which to jump off to South Africa, the Middle East and Europe.  I want to take full advantage of whatever time I have to see with my own eyes great world landmarks.

My journey back in time began with an eventful flight from Casablanca to Istanbul.  The day at school had been very hectic, and I had literally shoveled some food very quickly down my gullet for what passed as lunchtime.  From that time on I never felt particularly great.  Not long after the flight began, I knew I was in trouble.  The seatbelt sign was on, but I didn't care; I had spotted a barf bag at another seat a couple of rows forward, across the aisle.  I jumped up, grabbed the bag from in front of a startled woman, and barely made it back to my seat when I spewed forth couscous with beef.  I vomited 6 times during that flight.  Unfortunately, only 5 times did I make it into a bag or the toilet.  Yup, #5 of 6 went all over the back of the airplane.  The flight crew was thrilled.  When I arrived the airport later than evening, I had no desire to catch transportation to my hostel, and 'slept' over some chairs in the terminal for about 6 hours until the early a.m.
I caught transportation into the city and used mass transit to get to my hostel.  I explained to the very nice guy why I didn't make it in the night before (with visual evidence on my shirt), and he didn't even charge me for it!  But my morning was about to get better.  I walked to my room to throw my bag inside, maybe catch a few winks before I start the day in earnest, open the door, step inside, and there is a woman in her bra and panties!  All lodging should begin this way!!

Istanbul is, in my opinion, one of the most significant crossroads in world history.  It is a bridge between Europe and Asia and the largest city in the nation, not its capital, but the country's economic, cultural, and historical center.  It is one of the world's largest cities, with a population of approx. 14 million.
It was founded around 660 BC as Byzantium, and reestablished as Constantinople in 330 AD.  It served as the capital of four empires: the (Roman, Byzantine, Latin and Ottoman Empire).  It was crucial in the advancement of Christianity during Roman and Byzantine times, before the Ottomans conquered the city in 1453 and transformed it into an Islamic stronghold and the seat of the last caliphate.
I stayed in a hostel along a charming little street, touristy not tacky, around the corner from Sultanhamet Square, site of a pair of the most famous attractions in the city: the Hagia Sophia and the "Blue Mosque".  My amateurish photos from ground level do not justice.  Here is two photos of the Hagia Sophia, exterior and interior, from online:



It dates from 537 and was an Eastern Orthodox cathedral for about 900 years, minus a period of about a half-century when it was a Roman Catholic cathedral.  It became a mosque in 1453 for about 500 years; it was made a museum in 1935.

The Sultan Ahmed Mosque is generally referred to as the Blue Mosque because of the blue tiles that line its interior.  I did a tiny bit better photographing this, but again seek help:
 
 
The mosque dates to the early 1600s and is renowned for its size and fine blend of several architectural styles.  It can hold 10,000 and is still used today for worship.

Istanbul was a very pleasant surprise - much cleaner and friendlier than I had been led to believe, with the exception of the man on the street who tried to 'befriend' me, and when I ignored him as I walked past, said: "Are you deaf?!"  I turned on my heel, stomped toward him, and proceeded to explain very loudly and profanely that my hearing was just fine, but he wouldn't be if he said another word :)

Off to Athens!

I recently asked a colleague what he thought of Greece; his reply: "It's like Europe took a big (bleep) and Greece came out".  As far as Athens is concerned, I'm now inclined to agree, but I'm glad I went.  I wanted to go because as a student of history, I just had to walk in the footsteps of the founders of Western civilization, who gave democracy to the world.

I got into Athens with no problems, and made my way to my hostel.  It was in a pretty sketchy area; though, I've read that the area has improved.  I do have to say, I only saw one adult movie theatre...

Athens has been home to mankind for perhaps 10,000 years or more, and a site of importance for maybe 3,500 years.  Its history as most know it dates to some 2,500 years ago.  It sits atop a number of hills and is bounded by several mountains.  The primary focus of my trip to Athens was to visit the Acropolis, an ancient citadel that sits on a flat area about 500 feet above Athens, with a number of important buildings, the Parthenon probably being the most noted.
These are a pair of (borrowed) pics, looking up to the Acropolis, and looking out from up on high:



I had some pretty cool views!  I also visited the Agora, which was the center of ancient Athenian society, plus, the stadium that was the site of the first modern Olympic games in 1896.  I also saw the changing of the guards at the Parliament building; the ceremony is noted for the unique manner in which the guards walk:


I have to admit I'm missing the American autumn, and while Christmas night in Rome last year was amazing, it would've been nice to have been home.  Though only the first week of November, I loved seeing this (SELFIE ALERT):
Now, there is a thing of beauty, and the statue...

I kept up my streak of threatening to beat someone going when I went to buy a subway ticket and a guy offered to 'help'.  Of course, he would then want money for his assistance.  This ain't my first rodeo.  He moved in very aggressively, and I immediately went to Def Con 5.  His eyes were like saucers, but I think he was too stunned to move.  When I stepped toward him with a fist cocked, he got the message.  Why this happens to me all the time is a mystery to me.

Finally, to Budapest!

Almost a century-and-a-half ago, west-bank Buda, Obuda (old Buda) and east-bank Pest became the unified city of Budapest, an absolutely gorgeous city split by the Danube River that is the capital of Hungary.  It has a wild history that I don't even know where to begin to tell it, that has produced an interesting culture, and a language that is exceedingly difficult to speak.  But it sure is a beautiful place!
While at my hostel in Athens I had a private room, so that was a step down in excitement from Istanbul.  I was in a dorm room again in Budapest.  There were a few females in my room, but, alas, a group of pleasant middle-aged ladies :(
I took one of those "Hop On, Hop Off" tours that included a boat segment.  The bridges were all very different, but all nice to see.  The major attractions in Budapest are perhaps the Royal Palace atop Castle Hill in Buda and the Parliament building in Pest, along with St. Stephen's Basilica and the Great Synagogue.  Here are respective photos of the latter four:

 



Whew!  What a wacky week that was - it was exhausting, what with 6 flights in 9 days (the last 2 with a pair of colleagues who were certainly the worse for wear ;) but it was worth it.

Christmas break can't get here soon enough - the travel itinerary is set...

And there's no way I trade a few more dollars in my pocket I could've spent
For a day that I'll never forget
No, I didn't get a thing done
But I sure soaked up every minute of the memory...
And I count it all as time well wasted...

Sunday, October 27, 2013

"Take A Back Road"

Sit in that six lane backed up traffic
Horns are honking, I've about had it
I'm looking for an exit sign
Gotta get out of here, get it all off my mind

 
And it makes me wanna take a back road
Makes me wanna take the long way home
Throw a little gravel in my travel
Unwind, unravel all night long


Thanks to Rodney Atkins for supplying the title to the blog post this week!  Hijinks on the highway was the inspiration, but back to that in a moment.  Monday morning saw a return to the classroom after a week off revolving around the most important Islamic holiday on the calendar.  It's not yet 8 in the a.m. and several of my students wander in to reconnect after the break.  One is more than eager to share a photo from his family's celebration.  It looked very similar to this photo taken from the Internet:



Other students regaled me with tales of eating sheep's' brains, tongues, vital organs, eyeballs and testicles.  Some may or may not be true, and I am not the squeamish type, but it was a little too early for this, and my stomach was literally turning.  Thanks, fellas...

Monday night brought more comedy.  I live one block removed from a couple of heavily trafficked roads in a commercial area; on Monday I went to cross one of them during evening rush.  At an opportune moment I darted from behind a car toward the other side.  All of a sudden I'm cradling my left wrist in pain - what the heck happened?!  About 20 feet to my right, a middle-aged man is stopped on his scooter, with his face in his hands.  I start to connect the dots.  Yup, I punched the guy in the face as he was zipping by on my left passing right-lane traffic.  I was watching the cars and trucks, never noticing him quickly sneaking up on me, and he certainly didn't expect me to jump out and whack him.  He had a 2-inch cut under his right eye, and it for sure was going to swell.  We really couldn't communicate.  I just kept apologizing, and he was probably silently cursing his luck he was half my size and didn't have a gun at that instant.

I didn't assault anyone on Tuesday.

On Wednesday after school I made my way over to the section of the city called Oasis.  It's a nice enough area, though I'd say the name is a bit of an exaggeration.  There is a place there called La Maison D'Enfants Lalla Hasnaa - the Lalla Hasnaa Children's Home, an orphanage carrying the name of Her Royal Highness Princess Lalla Hasnaa, it's honorary leader.  It is funded by the government to provide for the care of and education for 250+ children, including some with disabilities, from ages birth to 6 years.

I learned of this place late last year and decided when I returned this fall I wanted to volunteer there.  Some ladies I work with made the introductions at a visit several weeks ago.  Apparently, I am something of an anomaly (gotta use my colleague's vocab words!).  It wouldn't be a stretch to say a male caring for these children is virtually unheard of.  Anyway, I took a form, managed to figure out what this application said and filled it out correctly. 

The other day I met with the director so she could sign off on my being with the children.  Her English was barely better than my French; I did take away from the meeting that I shouldn't be caring for newborns, but she was pleased that I was a special education teacher.  She even asked if I wanted to stay that afternoon.  I hadn't planned on that, but sure!  I enjoyed playing with a pair of older toddlers at first in an activity/treatment room.  Then a small group of younger toddlers came in.  The caregiver asked me in French what my name was, I replied, then I heard her speak to the kids, saying something I couldn't understand except for the words "Uncle Jack", at which point the group turned and most ran at me looking for hugs and kisses.  I scared the pooh out of a couple.  I went back at my prescribed time Saturday morning.  When the first two saw me they immediately remembered and had big smiles on their face.  Another was brought in, took one look at me, and ran away screaming.  Patience.  All in all it was a lot of fun and I look forward to going back.  I can't take photos of course, but here are a few links in case you're curious:

association-ihssane.org

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Maison-denfants-Lalla-Hasnaa/195961177163703

http://www.indh.gov.ma/fr/doc/presentation_Habiba_ALAOUI.pdf

On Saturday night I went to an 80's-themed Halloween at a colleagues beachfront pad in Dar Bouazza to the south of Casa.  The joint was awesome and everyone's costumes were hysterical.  Four people came as Ghostbusters.  Lots of high hair (and a great mullet!)  A punk chick and a Madonna look-alike.  Walk like an Egyptian!  I stepped straight out of The Preppy Handbook.  Pink shirt with collar up and a red Ralph Lauren Chaps sweater thrown over my shoulders, light-colored khakis and boat shoes with no socks, with 40-dirham "Ray-Bans" to complete the ensemble.  Completely authentic!  Not certain if it's a good thing or a bad one that, unlike all of my colleagues who went to the souk at Hay Hassani to find clothing, all I had to do was go into my closet to show exactly how I dressed 25 years ago...I don't have a lot of photos at hand, but believe me it was totally radical!

One week, then off to Istanbul, Athens and Budapest!  See y'all in a couple...

Tear down some two-lane country, who knows
Get lost and get right with my soul
Makes wanna take, makes me wanna
Take a back road

 
Some old back road, get right with my soul
Now all I gotta do is take some old back road
To the shady spot where things get hot...
Way down, way down, way down some old back road